.png)
Pilsen
Profile
Don’t let Pilsen’s size fool you. It may have a small footprint, but it’s practically exploding with history, food, culture, and music.
This Lower West Side neighborhood is colorful and warm, with murals that stretch across brick-walled buildings and metro stairways. But it isn’t just the stunning art that makes this area so interesting. Everywhere you look, you’ll find evidence of the multi-layered history that made Pilsen what it is today. In addition to the thriving Latino culture, its strong community vibe has been built and enriched by people of diverse backgrounds for generations.
Pilsen’s international influences span from Germany to Ireland, and Mexico to the Czech Republic. If you find yourself with constantly itchy feet, a home-base in Pilsen could be the perfect antidote. You’ll feel like you’re trotting the globe while walking down the block. And while the area has grown and developed a lot over the years, it’s also continued to maintain its character — especially because both its longtime locals and recent residents are so proud to call Pilsen home.
Close your inbox at lunch, and step out for a walk to Frida Room, where the steaming coffee and chilaquiles will help you coast through the 2pm work-from-home slump. And when you’re walking home from a grocery run, Pilsen’s bright murals are like an Instagram feed IRL. On the weekend, the district’s independent stores will easily fill an afternoon, whether you’re hunting for vintage clothes at Knee Deep, or for that classic vinyl at Pinwheel Records.
If you want that perfect mix of close-to-the-action and off-the-beaten-path, Pilsen is a fantastic option. It’s a growing community with an active art scene and a strong sense of local identity.
Pilsen is balmy summer evenings dining al fresco with friends. It’s lazy Sundays wandering through galleries and digging through used records. It’s a quick hop to run errands downtown, and be back by sunset for tapas and a live show. It’s a burst of creative inspiration from every neighborhood stroll. It’s an eclectic mix that makes you feel alive, and a glowing community that makes you feel like you’ve come home.
Backstory
Back at its origin, the area of Pilsen wasn’t called Pilsen at all.
This neighborhood’s roots trace back to the mid-19th century when German and Irish immigrants arrived in search of work. Seeing how the area was booming, others soon joined them — particularly from the Czech Republic (or Czechoslovakia, as it was known back then).
It was this second wave of new residents that helped shape the Pilsen we know today. In fact, the name ‘Pilsen’ is believed to have come from one of the area’s most popular restaurants at the time: At the City of Plzeň.
Still, with such incredible growth in industry, and an expanding labor force, conditions were not always in favor of the workers. In the late 1800s, people had to band together to advocate for their labor rights — and Pilsen residents were ready to step up to do it, creating a formative moment in the neighborhood’s history and labor movements.
Fast forward to the early 1900s, and a third cultural wave added even more life to the area. You don’t need to look far in modern-day Pilsen to find evidence of Latino culture and art, as well as a diversity of voices, cuisines, and traditions. Pilsen has a rich multicultural background, a deep history of advocacy and expression, and a hard-won contemporary community.
Local Fare
- Cafe Jumping Bean: One of Pilsen’s longest-running brunch spots, this clever space combines life-giving coffee creations, tasty morsels, and an impressive gallery space.
- Carnitas Don Pedro: People travel from miles around for authentically prepared carnitas — perfectly spiced and served with a genuine smile.
- Harbee Tavern: Reflecting Pilsen’s Czech past, this is both a liquor store and bar, serving up an impressive selection of craft beers to its varied clientele.
- Hai Sous: Who’s up for happy hour? Thursday to Sunday 4pm until 6pm, Hai Sous is a great place to catch up with friends over drinks. And the Chinese-Vietnamese food — both James Beard-nominated and Michelin Bib Gourmet-awarded — is totally delicious, too.
- S.K.Y.: Just across from Thalia Hall, find a selection of small plates that are just as delicious as they are photogenic. Don’t forget the cornbread Madeleines.
- 5 Rabanitos: A sizzling taqueria with locally-sourced everything. Come for the crispy taquitos, toasty plantains, and steaming bowls of pozole.
- PL-zen: Relax with friends at a fun and funky gastropub, with local paintings on the walls and more spice-rimmed Margaritas than you’ll know what to do with.
- Carnitas Uruapan: This place is (as you might expect) all about carnitas, serving slow-cooked tender pork by the plate or by the pound. But don’t ignore the fresh-fried chicharron or the cold, creamy paletas.
- Spoke and Bird Bakehouse: An adorable cafe famous for its breakfast sandwich, served on a house-baked bun. This woman-owned hangout offers a variety of breakfast and lunch fare made from local ingredients, as well as coffee, beer, and pastries.
- Kristoffer’s Cafe and Bakery: Known for their selection of tres leches cake, this small Rick-Bayless-approved spot is run by a dynamic husband-and-wife duo. Also: there’s a horchata latte.
Things to Do
- National Museum of Mexican Art: For almost four decades, this museum has shared and celebrated the vast history of Mexican art and culture — through its galleries, classes, and development programs.
- La Fiesta del Sol: Every year, the Midwest’s largest Latino festival celebrates Mexican culture with a summer event that attracts over a million visitors.
- Thalia Hall: Music is vital to Pilsen, and Thalia Hall — with its regular program of unmissable bands — is one of the best places in the neighborhood to catch a show.
- Women Made Gallery: Exhibitions span from sculpture to painting to textile work and beyond. In their thirty-plus years, they’ve featured and supported thousands of female and non-binary artists.
- Record shops: If you’re hunting vinyl, you have options. There’s 606 Records with its massive crates to dig through, Pinwheel Records (which also sells vintage video games), and Shadyrest Vintage and Vinyl — where you can find antiques and furniture to match that sweet Bowie LP.
- House of the Apocalypse: Gems don’t get more hidden than this. You can tour this sleeper gallery space every second Friday, or by appointment. Look for the futuristic robo-mannequins, gleaming with disco glass and neon tubing.
Sights to See
- 16th Street murals: Whether it’s your first, second, or fiftieth time walking down 16th street, you’ll be wowed by the expression and artistry of Pilsen’s many murals.
- Dvorak Anton Park: Named for the famous Czech composer, this park houses an outdoor pool and sports facilities, plus a community arts center in its unmistakable red fieldhouse.
- Chicago Arts District: Located around Halsted, you’ll find the best of Pilsen’s gallery scene where you can take a self-guided tour on 2nd Friday Gallery Nights.
Transportation
Conveniently connected to downtown Chicago via the Pink Line, Pilsen residents can make a quick run downtown, usually in less than half an hour. Bus lines also run through the neighborhood, making downtown or O’Hare accessible 24/7. Pilsen is dense and highly walkable, with many shops and restaurants within blocks of each other. Plus, the Ashland bus will quickly take you south to the Orange line, or north to West Town and additional train connections.
- The Loop: ~ 25 min via Pink Line
- Museum Campus: ~25 min by bike; ~35 min by public transit
- Midway: ~45 min by public transit